In this lesson you will first learn how to quickly assess a lock’s internal geometry. Begin by inserting a thin, flat tension wrench into the bottom of the keyway and applying a light clockwise torque. Observe the feedback: a “click‑y” feel indicates that the lock uses a standard 5‑pin pin tumbler system, while a smooth, resistant feel suggests a higher security profile (e.g., spool pins, mushroom pins, or sidebars). Once you confirm a standard pin stack, you can proceed with a rake.
Next, choose a rake that matches the lock’s keyway width—typically a 2‑mm or 3‑mm rake for most residential deadbolts. Hold the rake between your thumb and index finger, aligning the tip with the keyway entry. With the tension wrench still applying light pressure, insert the rake and begin a rapid, back‑and‑forth motion that mimics the motion of a key being turned. The goal is to “bounce” each pin past its shear line: the rake’s teeth lift the bottom pins while the tension wrench holds the top pins just enough to catch them in the correct position. Maintain a consistent rhythm; too fast will cause the pins to reset, too slow will allow the lock to settle. Pay attention to the tactile feedback—when the lock turns slightly, you have likely set one or more pins. Continue raking until the lock rotates fully open.
After you have practiced the basic rake, you will learn to recognize when the technique is failing. Indicators include a lock that spins without catching, a feeling of excessive resistance, or a lack of audible clicks. In these cases, increase tension slightly and switch to a single‑pin picking approach, or consider using a different rake profile (e.g., a “cactus” rake for locks with tighter tolerances). Understanding when to stop raking saves time and reduces wear on both the lock and your tools.
The rest of this lesson (full video walkthrough + downloadable PDF + practice exercises) is available to enrolled Lock School students. Enroll →
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